Sharon Stone or Paris Hilton? Boyish glamour has edge

Suzi Hosfeld
Naples Sun Times

Do you prefer the girly-girl look of Paris Hilton or the womanly-strong look of, say, Sharon Stone? Well, girly is definitely over, as pink and frilly clothes are being replaced by a more graceful, womanly look. Elegant femininity is now being challenged by a contrasting element: boyish glamour.

Tiny jackets worn with skinny pants (Yes, they're still hot) are a current look, and as brocade takes over for lighter fabrics, the little soldier goes to fashion's front line. Naples fashion divas need not worry about anything too heavy for the weather. Even though it's still winter, designers are compensating with lighter versions of wool and brocade.

Girls looking like boys is hardly new in fashion. In fact, menswear styling goes back to Shakespeare's romantic heroines, and Marlene Dietrich, who oozed sex appeal in a tuxedo while drumming up excitement with the boys. Who could forget Katherine Hepburn - every liberated woman's style icon?
There is a difference today in the masculine style of clothing. Women are not trying for the androgynous, slouchy male trouser suit like Annie Hall wore. Now it's all about the line - slim, long and very sexy. Trousers can be long and lean or softly pleated and sexy. Jackets are not boxy, but lean and very slimming.

Balenciaga and Dior sent models down the runway in slim trousers with lacy white shirts spilling out from under lean jackets. Gucci's remake of the David Bowie pipe-cleaner-narrow suits made the 70's seem to jump forward three decades.

The graceful, womanly look is not necessarily built upon pants, although Yves Saint Laurent was the first designer to put trousers on women. Designer Stefano Pilati prefers skirts. His models strolled down the runways in speckled-tweed blouson jackets, teamed with grey felt skirts and a big bow at the neck; very feminine, while maintaining a menswear aesthetic. Naples fashionistas can create the same look with a simple pencil skirt, paired with a short-sleeved blouse that ties at the neck, coordinated with a pair of high-heeled pumps and Louis Vuitton purse, and you're off!

Chunky knits are another favorite of designers this season. Just when men have finally accepted that pink, fine-gauge cashmere is cool, women are grabbing at hunky knits that guys once wore on weekends. Lightweight knits are perfect for Naples, and are great when the air turns chilly. Local stores, like Banana Republic and Saks, are filled with great knits.
The trench coat is still having its fashion moment. But when you see what Burberry's Christopher Bailey can do with a belted coat - making it lighter and smaller or as tough as a quilted handbag in leather, you realize there is still mileage in this classic.

Elsewhere, the mannish touch came as car-coats and maxi-coats were sent out with touches of toughness. Boldly checked wool brings back masculine tailoring that mirrors the 1960's. That is just where Balenciga's Nicholas Ghesquiere looked when he was researching the archives and came up with the jackets and bell-shaped skirts and helmet hats that he created. Like all tweedy looks, his needed a bit of subversion, so thick hose and club-sandwich-sized platform shoes were the current take. Although only for the bravest of fashion divas, the rest of us can remake the look with ease.
The message this season; it's time to lay down the girl stuff and get tough!

(Suzi Hosfeld has been in the fashion industry for more than 32 years as president of four major modeling and talent agencies, and as a professional model and actress. Contact her at suzihosfeld2@hotmail.com)

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